If you are relatively new to the 8+-course Chinese
Banquet, then I hope you will enjoy learning from this handout
as well as from experiencing our simple, happy, and contemporary
JING Banquet.
The wonder of a Chinese Banquet is that, in many ways, it is the
exact opposite of Chinese Family Dining; but in the manner of
formality and respect, a Banquet is Family Dining taken to the
extreme.
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Seating At
a Chinese Banquet, the host sits nearest the door; this is so
that he/she is closest to the kitchen and can bring dishes in
easily if she is entertaining at home, and is closest to the
servers and highest traffic if entertaining at a restaurant.
The guest of honor is to be seated opposite the host, facing the
door, and the next most honored guest is seated to the left of
the guest of honor. Age most often sets the order of honor and
precedence in the Chinese system.
Table Settings and Eating Etiquette
Chinese food is prepared so that the only utensils you could
ever need are chopsticks, a soup spoon, and your hands (for
difficult lobster or crab). Food is either already cut into
manageable pieces (“manageable” meaning that you can hold it in
your chopsticks and bite it) or so tender that you can easily
break a piece off with just your chopsticks (for example, the
whole fish that we will be eating later!).
Hopefully, you already know that you are not allowed to play
with your chopsticks in any way, and you are never ever to stick
your chopsticks upright into anything – sticking chopsticks
upright resembles too much how people offer burning incense to
their most respected dead ancestors.
What you should also know is that Banquets are supposed to be
raucous affairs, not quiet, and definitely not sedate. You can
put your elbows on the table, too.
Also, the little plate at your table setting is not to for you
to gather a full serving of each new dish. Traditionally,
Chinese people eat directly off the communal plate (“public
chopsticks” and other such serving utensils came later), and
that little plate is for 1) eating your large-but-manageable
piece of food over, 2) allowing your gracious host and other
table-mates to serve you food without your asking (don’t worry –
you don’t have to eat it), and 3) having a place to put bones
etc. (we used to just lay the bones on the tablecloth, but we’re
more civilized now). You are allowed to serve yourself a
small serving of food onto the plate, of course – just
make sure to leave food for the other 10 people at your table,
and save room for the next 7 courses.
Commencement of the Meal
The meal begins with the Host raising a cup to toast the event,
after which all the guests vie with each other to be the most
polite and allow someone else to take the first morsel of food.
In my teenage Beijing and young San Diego experience, the way
that eating actually begins is either by the most respected or
most senior person picking up his chopsticks while saying “Let’s
eat!” or by a humble younger guest (usually me) serving a choice
morsel to the most respected person at the table, and then the
second-most-senior, and onward until either the young person
could no longer reach the next person’s plate or someone
politely hinted that they wanted to turn the lazy susan and
serve himself. Such is the ritual for almost every new course
of food.
Serving of the Meal Family-style
Chinese meals are served all at once to the middle of the table,
with rice (or a steamed bun, in the north) given at the very
beginning of the meal, a number of all- or mostly-vegetable
dishes to offer nutrition, and a small amount of meat, used
mostly for flavor and usually as a small part of a larger
vegetable dish or soup. (Now that Chinese people are more
prosperous, they eat more meat, of course, but even prosperous
Chinese family dining is nothing like Americans’ “Steak -- it’s
what for dinner” culture.)
A banquet, however, is about bounteousness, the host's
generosity and prosperity, and the joy of celebration, so
instead of all the courses being served at once, food is brought
in many successive courses with enough time in-between that
guests can fully enjoy each dish before the next one is
served. The majority of dishes will be of meat or seafood, with
vegetables added for texture and color. There will also be one
or two simple vegetable dishes to break up the monotony of meat,
and the grain/starch (rice or noodle) will be served at the very
end of the meal because there is no such thing as a
philosophically low-carb Chinese meal.
As an important culture aside, “eating” in Chinese is called
“eating rice” – “吃饭”
– and the most common greeting you will hear between friends and
family is not “Ni Hao” (hello) but “吃饭了吗?”
“Have you eaten (rice) yet?” While Chinese also eat a
plentitude of noodles and steamed buns, it is ingrained in the
culture to call food “rice”, and a meal is not complete until
rice (or noodles or steamed bun) is eaten, even if a person’s
belly is already bursting with too much rich food.
Next: one of the most well-known and oft-recited poems in
Chinese is a short 4-line, 20-word poem about the labor and
suffering required to grow rice, and how you should never waste
even a single precious grain. This is very true in the home
setting, but, again, Banquets are about Bounteousness, so do not
feel any pressure to actually finish the rice course, or any of
the other courses. In fact, if you finish all the rice, it
could mean that the host did not provide enough for his guests,
which could cause him to lose face, which is one of the worst
things you could to do a host. (Don’t worry so much about this
rule in America, though – we understand that you Americans like
rice, too.)
What is Served To
reiterate, in a dramatic reversal of everyday habit, banquets
consist solely of special dishes. The meat and vegetables that
serve as side dishes at regular meals become the focus, and the
all-important rice (or other starch) is relegated to the very
end of the meal, and not expected to be finished.
Banquets will typically have either 8, 9, 10, or 12 courses –
enough to be generous, but not so much as to be ridiculous
(though there are many historical records of imperial feasts
having over 100 courses and taking hours, or even days, to
complete). 8 is good number because it is a near- homophone to
the word for “success”. 9 is good because it is a homophone for
“longevity” (good for weddings, especially)(some restaurants
will consider a 9-course meal as being “8 courses with dessert,”
as well). 10 is good because it’s “the perfect number”. 12 is
good because it’s an even number of courses just shy of being
ridiculously too much food, and even numbers are good because
they symbolize togetherness (odd numbers symbolize that someone
has to be the odd one out, which is not a good thing in any
culture).
The first course is usually a cold dish to act as an appetizer.
Next usually comes soup. After that come many meat dishes and a
few vegetable dishes, with no meat or vegetable to be used more
than once. The final (pre-starch, pre-dessert) course is
usually a whole fish, placed on the table with its head (the
best part) pointing at the guest of honor. Fish is the final
(pre-starch, pre-dessert) course because “fish” is a homophone
for “extra”, as in “able to finish the meal with food to spare,”
or “the meal was truly bounteous, and we hope that our lives
will be bounteous as well.” An important cultural note: never
flip a fish over. When all the meat has been taken from above
the bones, the bones should be removed and the flesh below then
enjoyed. Especially in regions with many fishermen, “turning a
fish over” represents “capsizing a boat,” a truly unfortunate
event.
As
another reminder, please take only a small portion of each dish so
that the other 10 people at your table will have a chance to sample
it, and so that you will have room to eat at least a bite of all 8,
9, 10, or 12 courses offered. In addition, it would be rude to stop
eating in the middle of a banquet, so plan ahead!
You should also know that it is perfectly acceptable to reach across
the table to take a morsel from a far-away dish. You will notice
that Chinese dining tables are more likely to be square or round,
rather than elongated like their western counterparts – this is so
that people can easily reach all of the food on the table, and not
have to ask their fellow diners to pass any heavy dishes or hot
plates.
Towards the end of the meal, when the rice or noodle is brought out,
you will notice that bowls are brought out, as well. This is to put
the starch into, after which the proper way to eat the starch is to
raise the bowl to your mouth and scoop it into your mouth with your
chopsticks. It is not expected for you to pick up each and every
grain of rice from your plate with chopsticks, nor for you to bring
your mouth to the level of the table. Chinese rice bowls are made
to fit easily into the palm of one hand because they are meant to be
held in the palm of one hand.
What is Drunk
In
America, and especially at JING events, we discourage diners from
becoming overly inebriated during dinner. Chinese tradition,
however, requires that a good host put as much alcohol into his
guests as possible. In fact, another name for “banquet” in Chinese
is “酒席” (wine/alcohol seat), and most large restaurants are called “酒家”
(wine home) rather than the more prosaic “餐馆” (meal hall). While
alcohol is very rarely served at everyday meals, it can play a
disproportionately important role at banquets.
In
China, the host usually decides which sort of alcoholic beverage
will be served, usually beer or
白酒
(baijiu, “white alcohol” or what we might call “white lightening”),
and it will be served throughout the meal. The banquet will start
with a toast, continue with seemingly endless toasting (the Chinese
phrase for “Cheers” is “Gan Bei!”, literally “Dry Cup!”), and then
progress to drinking games (tea and soda can also be used for
toasting, thankfully, but nobody plays drinking games with 7-Up.)
Hard liquor (white lightening) is never to be drunk alone, so hosts
and friends are always looking for a companion to drink with, and it
can be taken as a grave insult if you refuse to drink your 50% +
proof alcohol with someone, so mild arguments and even light
scuffles are not uncommon at the more unruly banquets. In fact, I
have even heard of American businessmen taking dedicated “Drinkers”
with them to businesses banquets so that they would not offend their
hosts, and yet still keep clear heads and usable livers throughout
the course of their business trips. All of this is despite the fact
that a large percentage of Chinese people are allergic to alcohol to
some degree.
Guests may refuse offers of food or drink two or more times without
being taken at their word - or, of course, without really meaning
their polite refusals. A good host always asks at least 3 times to
get the real answer from his polite guests.
Thankfully, if you are (or are pretending to be) allergic to
alcohol, you may graciously beg exemption from the vast quantities
of white lightening offered and sip tea or soda instead. Or, if you
are not allergic and trying very hard to assimilate into Chinese
culture, you can learn how to win Chinese drinking games and simply
drink your hosts under the table early on, as did Matthew Polly, the
author of
American Shaolin.
Now that I’m done complaining about all the drunkenness I saw as a
teenager in China, let me talk about non-alcoholic drinks.
Water will not be automatically served in a traditional Chinese
restaurant, and tea is meant to be sipped for taste and to cleanse
the palate rather than to fulfill any thirst. Soup is supposed to
be the only liquid to fill your belly at a great banquet, all other
liquids being merely fillers that could take space away from the
great dishes to be served. Bottles of soda are now frequently
provided, as well (don’t ask me why).
There is great courtesy to filling cups, be it tea, alcohol, or
soda. First, know that it is terribly impolite to fill your own
cup. Hopefully, your host will be constantly monitoring your cup and
fill it for you; if not, then fill the cups of all those around you
(that you can reach, and then nod apologetically to those you can’t
reach), then fill your own cup. If the people around you already
have full cups, then drop just one more drop into their cups to show
that you are thinking of them before you are thinking of your own
thirst.
To show your thanks to someone for filling your cup, you can tap
the table with the tips of your fingers. This tradition is said to
date back to a ploy invented by a Qing Dynasty emperor. While making
an incognito tour of South China, the emperor visited a teahouse. In
order to maintain his cover as an ordinary member of a party of
travelers, the emperor took his turn at pouring tea for his
companions. They started to acknowledge this astonishing honor by
bowing in the usual fashion, but the emperor told them they could
simply tap the table with three fingers—two of which would represent
their prostrate limbs, while the third finger would symbolize their
bowed heads. (I have also seen people tap the table with just one or
two fingers. Someone in China once told me that the different
number of fingers could symbolize thanks for a single person vs a
person and his family at the table, but I have not seen any
corroboration of this. Just tap the table and dip your head in
thanks, and you’ll be ok.)
Ending According
to tradition, the guest of honor decides when everyone has had
their fill of food and alcohol and tea, and no one may rise to
leave until he does. Nowadays, the host can give the guest of
honor a discreet signal that the banquet is at an end. In a
restaurant, the servers will bring out cut fruit (more
traditional) or some sort of dessert (more modern and American),
and possibly stop refilling the teapot. Such are the signs that
the banquet is complete.
One
final note about Chinese dining: the saying “to go Dutch” is
antithetical to Chinese dining culture. Traditional Chinese
never split the bill for a meal, preferring instead the more
friendly give-and-take of treating each other to eat and always
looking forward to the next meal together.
Major Types of Chinese Cuisine
China is a big place, made up of 56 ethnic groups and divided by
numerous mountains and rivers. There are innumerable dialects
spoken in China, and so it is to be expected that cuisine differs
greatly between regions. On www.globalgourmet.com
you can find brief descriptions of some of the major types of
Chinese Cuisine, including Cantonese, Shanghai, Pekinese (Beijing),
Szechuan, and (SiChuan).
Food Symbolism
A
significant part of all Chinese festivals and special-occasion
banquets is the food and food symbolism. Below are some of the
major food symbolisms, gathered from my experience and a good Google
search for Chinese Food Symbolism:
Chicken
forms part of the symbolism of the dragon and phoenix in Chinese
culture. At a Chinese wedding, chicken's feet, referred to as
“Phoenix Feet,” are often served with dragon foods such as lobster.
Chicken is also popular at Chinese New Year, symbolizing a good
marriage and the coming together of families, and serving the bird
whole emphasizes family unity.
Ducks
represent fidelity in Chinese culture. If you are ever invited to a
Chinese wedding banquet, don't be surprised to spot a mouthwatering
platter of Peking duck on the banquet table.
Eggs
– The Chinese believe eggs symbolize fertility. After a baby is
born, parents may hold a "red egg and ginger party", where they
serve round hard-boiled eggs to announce the birth.
Egg rolls
or spring rolls resemble the shape of a gold bar, and thus are often
served on the New Year as a symbol of wealth and prosperity in the
coming year.
Fish
play a large role in festive celebrations. The Chinese word for fish
"Yu" sounds like the homophonic words both for wish and abundance.
As a result, on New Year's Eve it is customary to serve a fish for
dinner, symbolizing the wish for accumulations of prosperity and
wealth in the coming year. In addition, the fish is served whole,
with head and tail attached, symbolizing a good beginning and ending
for the coming year.
Noodles
are the symbol of longevity in Chinese culture. They are as much a
part of Chinese birthday celebration as a birthday cake with lit
candles is in many countries, so that youngsters or seniors all will
have a bowl of Long Life Noodle in the expectation of a healthy
life.
Seeds
--
lotus seeds, watermelon seeds, etc -- represent bearing many
children in Chinese culture. Visit an Asian bakery during the
Chinese New Year, and you're likely to find a wide assortment of
snacks with different types of seeds in them.
Shark’s Fin Soup
indicates wealth because this delicacy is very expensive.
Sweet Red Bean Soup
and Sweet Buns. Serving dessert at a wedding banquet wishes
the newlyweds a sweet life. Sweet red bean soup should contain
lotus seeds (lian zi) and a bark-like vegetable (bak hop)
to wish the newlyweds a hundred years of togetherness (homophones of
lianzi and bak hop). The sweet lotus paste in sweetened steamed
bread symbolizes fertility, and the buns themselves are often shaped
and colored to resemble peaches, since the peach represents long
life (the fabled “Peach of Longevity”). The Peach-Shaped Sweet Bun
is also a favorite at birthday banquets.
Vegetables with Sea Cucumber
– Serving sea cucumber with vegetables at a wedding banquet is a
sign of selflessness because “sea cucumber” sounds like “"good
heart” and this dish wishes the couple to think in a similar way –
to avoid conflict.
Also, red dishes are featured at weddings as red is the color of
happiness. (You may find them served at New Year's banquets for the
same reason.)
There are a host of other foods, snacks, and fruits which
symbolize good wishes under special circumstances, as well. Ask
a Chinese person to describe their favorite symbolic food to
you!
A
Very Little Bit About Chinese Wedding Banquets
Food
The food symbolism at weddings is especially important. Please see
“Food Symbolism” above!
Decorations
You might notice that Chinese restaurants have a big, complex
Chinese symbol behind the head table; it is the “double happiness”
symbol used for wedding events.
Each half of the symbol is the standard character for happiness,
喜
(xi).Therefore, two "xi" characters together represents the wish for
the two young newlyweds to have happiness together.
The double happiness symbol is a special Chinese character used for
marital happiness and not used in regular Chinese writing or
printing.
Next, you probably notice that everything is red. Red is the
color of happiness in Chinese culture, whereas white is the color of
mourning, so weddings are supposed to be drenched in red.
Dress
Nowadays, many Chinese couples get married in Western-style white
wedding dresses and black tuxedos, but the banquet dresses are all
brightly colored, and usually red. And the bride is sure to change
her dress at least 3 or 4 times during the banquet!
Games
Modern Chinese weddings are loud, festive affairs, with much teasing
by friends of the bride and groom. Wedding receptions often include
many little games, my favorite of which has always been the “cherry”
game: a friend stands on a chair and holds a cherry suspended on a
string. The bride and groom are blindfolded and their hands tied
behinds their backs, then bid to find and bite the cherry, which the
friend will invariably pull away and around. Much public touching of
the bride and groom’s lips is involved, a fun event in an otherwise
very conservative culture.
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Compiled by Jing Jing for the
November 2011 JING
Culture Class